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You’ve probably read the previous piece on North Indian breads. This article focuses on North Indian cooking, which includes cooking style, spices used, terminology and some common foods.

North Indian cooking is nearly always quite spicy and uses a large number of spices in any given dish. The terms used for various dishes are normally descriptive of the food itself like Jeera Aloo for instance, which literally translates to ‘Cumin seed Potatoes’. Like most cultures there are also some misleading names like ‘Butter Chicken’, which is actually marinated chicken cooked in a tandoor and served in smooth, tomato gravy and doesn’t contain any butter. There are also terms which aren’t related to the food in question, like Pulao, which is rice cooked with spices and vegetables. The term sabzi (sub-zee) is used quite liberally when describing nearly any dry, vegetable preparation. The same applies to the term dal, which is used for most types of lentils. The term tari (tuh-ree) denotes gravy and is suffixed to the name of a dish when it has gravy.

In these days of fusion food, it is difficult to pin down a set of spices that a given region can claim. However, traditionally, north Indian cooking uses the following spices and herbs:

• Cumin seed (Jeera)
• Ajowan or (Ajwain)
• Red Chili Powder I – Flavor over color (Lal Mirch)
• Red Chili Powder II – Color over flavor (Degi Mirch or Kashmiri Mirch)
• Turmeric Powder (Haldi)
• Dried Mango Powder (Aamchur)
• Coriander Seeds (Sabat Dhania)
• Coriander Powder (Dhania)
• Fresh Coriander Leaves (Hara Dhania)
• Green Cardamom (Choti Elaichi)
• Black Cardamom (Badi Elaichi)
• Cinnamon (Dalchini)
• Garam Masala – A set mixture of spices – roasted cumin, cinnamon, cloves, caraway seeds, nutmeg (and/or mace) and green cardamom seed or black cardamom pods. The composition of Garam Masala changes from region to region.
• Dried Fenugreek Leaves (Kasuri Methi)
• Black Mustard Seeds (Rai)

This list is by no means complete – there are many more spices used in every day North Indian cooking – the purpose of this article however is to provide a feel for North Indian cooking.

Different spices are used in different situations, in different ways. The flavor and characteristics of spices change if you’re dry roasting them, frying them, adding them before simmering to cook or after cooking.

Our first foray into traditional North Indian cooking could start with a simple vegetable preparation, which we could either call Aloo ki Sabzi (‘Vegetable Preparation of Potatoes’) or Jeera Aloo (Cumin seed Flavored Potatoes).

Cumin Seed Potatoes / Jeera Aloo

Ingredients

- 3 Large Baking Potatoes

-One onion, chopped fine

-1 tsp Cumin seed

-1 tsp Turmeric Powder

-1 tsp Chili Powder

-1 tsp Coriander Powder

-1 tsp Dried Mango Powder

-Salt to taste

-Chopped fresh coriander for garnishing

-Oil for frying

Method

First peel your potatoes, dice and then boil in lightly salted water. Then drain and let cool. Heat oil in your pan and add the cumin seed. After 2 – 3 seconds of crackling, add the onions and fry, stirring lightly for about a minute on low heat. Now add all the spices, except the dried mango powder and mix well. Throw in the potatoes, which should be nice and firm now and toss well, so the onion-spice mixture coats the potatoes all over. Simmer for about 5 – 7 minutes. Finally, add the dried mango powder and toss the potatoes on high heat, till there’s a thick, spicy sludge adhering to the potatoes. Garnish with the fresh, chopped coriander prior to serving.

These can be served with Rotis, filled in toasted sandwiches or just eaten as is for a snack.

As you can see, this everyday dish uses 5 different spices and one herb. There are some traditional dishes that use up to 30 different spices! These are now (in most part) a thing of the past and cooked only on very special occasions.

As an example, let’s say we’d like to try our hand at cooking a simple north Indian dish without a recipe, simply going by the style. Obviously we’ll need some north Indian spices, the most common of which are Jeera (cumin seed), Haldi (turmeric powder), Namak (salt) and Mirch (chili powder). The first step, in nearly every dish is to fry onions as it is a staple in north Indian cooking. When pink/transparent, we add some spices and fry some more. This gives us a thick sauce to which we can add a little water if we wish. This sauce will coat the vegetables or meat we’ll add later. Here’s a simple example.

Onion and Tomato Sabzi / Pyaaz Tamatar ki Sabzi

Ingredients

-3 Large tomatoes, chopped roughly

-Two Onions, chopped roughly

-2 large cloves of garlic, finely sliced

-1 tsp Cumin seed

-1 tsp Turmeric Powder

-1 tsp Dried Mango Powder

-1 tsp Chili Powder

-Salt to taste

-Oil for frying

Method

The process is really quite simple – we heat a little oil, add the onions, fry a little, add the garlic and continue frying till the onions are pink or translucent. Then we add the rest of the spices except the dried mango powder, mix well and finally toss in the tomatoes. The dried mango powder goes in at the end.

One major feature of Indian cooking is that vegetables are rarely left crisp or crunchy. They’re nearly always cooked till they’re very soft. This isn’t very good for the nutrition content of the veggies and I’d recommend cooking them till they’re just done and still have a bit of bite left.

The pan will be kept on a simmer for 5 – 10 minutes, till the tomatoes are cooked through. Finally we stir in the dried mango powder and it’s ready to eat! This dish is usually eaten with Rotis.

As you can see, the pattern is similar – fry onions (if using), spices, toss in vegetables, nuke them (or not) and serve. Now that we have an idea of the basics involved, let’s get on to the secrets!

The Cooking Methods (by Naheed)

Secret 1: Bhuno well.

This is an extremely important process and involves frying spices to extract most of their flavor. Remember not to overheat the oil (unless it is mustard oil, which has to be heated till it emits some smoke & does not froth when something is put in it). If dry powdered masala is being used, the oil should not be hot as the dry spices will burn. Some amount of water must be added if you feel the spices may burn. When making the masala, use onion paste along with ginger & garlic to which you will add other spices as required.

For meat however, the method is quite different. This is the last process for cooking meat in quite a few cases, or the process just before adding water to make the gravy. It is believed the real flavor of meat develops only if you devote upward of 10 minutes to this process. Meat releases some of its own fat which mixes with the spices and then the oil cooks the meat and helps the meat absorb the mixed flavors of the spices. How long to do so, is a question that has no fixed answer. As a guideline, stop when either the meat becomes too tender or the gravy becomes completely dry, or your guests start to get very restless. You will also notice that the meat & gravy tend to stick to the vessel if you do not stir them constantly. If they do, scrape it off; and if the gravy gets too dry, add yoghurt or water.

Secret 2: Bagharna

This is a simple process and is called Chaukna in Hindi. Here dry spices are added to hot oil and this concoction is added to a dish (e.g. Dal). Although a simple process, do not burn the spices. In fact it is advised that once you have added the spices, remove the vessel from the fire.

Secret 3: Dum Cooking

This is the art of slow cooking. It enables individual flavors to intermingle properly. This is also the method used for the last few minutes when cooking rice or biryani. In the old days, when food was cooked on coal or wood, the only way was to raise the distance between the flame & the vessel, or put the vessel in the dying embers, seal the lid of the dish with flour & put a few embers of coal on top of the lid. In dum cooking, it is essential the fire be at its lowest and the food will therefore take a while before it’s done. Rest assured that your patience will be amply rewarded. Thankfully modern cooking presents us with newer methods and one of the easiest is to put the whole vessel in an oven. If you do not have one, put a griddle (tawa) on the flame & then put the vessel on it. Also note that dum cooking meat will make the ingredients (meat, vegetables) exude the moisture or water within. A word of caution here: Try not to use a pressure cooker or the meat will not turn out right.

Secret 4: Frying

Simple you’d say. Well, yes it is. However, there are two types of frying. One is frying to cook and the other one to brown. For deep frying it is essential that there be sufficient oil to cover the item. For browning, the oil can be less but must be at a low temperature.

Secret 5: Using earthenware

Not only is earthenware cheap in India but it was also the first form of disposable crockery. Most desserts in India were traditionally served either on banana leaves or in earthenware crockery. Some of the better known five star restaurants in India still use earthenware. If you’ve noticed, tea at Indian railway stations is still served in earthenware glasses. Not only is it environmentally friendly, a special earthy flavor permeates the tea, which no cooking method can simulate.

Secret 6: Kewda Water

Kewda is the derivative of a desert plant with very fragrant leaves. The essential oil of this is heavily diluted in water which is used as a perfuming agent for food. Typically used in Firni and Zarda among other desserts and has no parallel.

The Ingredients

Secret 1: Dahi or Yoghurt

This is a wonder ingredient. Yoghurt lends a light buttery flavor to the creation as well as a light creamy consistency. For example, it is the base for some dishes like Rizala where the original flavor of yoghurt is completely transformed. Yoghurt when cooked transforms in taste to lightly sour and gives the gravy a creamy texture. All in all, it is an essential item. In a few dishes, it may be substituted by tomato puree but then the final result will be slightly different. Did you know vegetables cooked in yoghurt retain their shape? In fact in Dumpukth Fish, it is the yoghurt that preserves the shape of the fish. Also, at times if you have mistakenly added extra salt, add a splash of whisked yoghurt and cook for a while.

Secret 2: Onions

This is an essential ingredient in a lot of dishes and is commonly used for salads. A handy tip on handling onions is to remove the outer dry skin, cut in half and wash thoroughly to prevent your eyes from watering. Onions lend a sweetish flavor to cooking and are a common masala base. However when fried then mixed, the taste is totally different. So when the recipe says “fry onions”, you’d better fry them.

Secret 3: Cumin

There are two types of cumin seeds. The common white cumin seeds which are cheap are used mainly in vegetarian dishes. They are more often than not fried to get their flavor out. Sometimes as in a raita, they are dry roasted on a tawa and then ground. However, the more expensive black cumin seeds or Shah Jeera as they are commonly known as, are quite different in taste and flavor. The two are rarely substituted. Most restaurants substitute them in rice preparations, but then, what you get is something totally different.

Final Recipe

Now that we have quite a good idea of what’s involved in North Indian cooking, perhaps a slightly complex recipe is in order – Nihari. This is definitely not one of the dishes that one finds on the menu of five star restaurants. This is one of the dishes eaten with a lot of passion by all. In fact to have Nihari one must have the zest to wake up before dawn because it is a very hot meal and in most places where it is served, the service is over by 9am. It is a delectable broth of meat, cooked over a slow fire, mostly overnight and eaten in the early hours of the morning with a tandoori roti and an assortment of fresh herbs accompanied by loads of lemon. The meat is fulfilling and the broth is had as a refreshing and a rather hot soup. The other reason why one has it as a breakfast meal and that too only in winter is because it makes you feel very thirsty and rather warm. Don’t tell me I didn’t warn you.

Nihari

Ingredients

• 1 kg Nihari meat (or any other meat that’s available)
• 250 grams Onions, sliced
• 3/4 cup Ghee
• 2 tbsp ginger paste
• 2 tbsp garlic paste
• 2 tbsp dry roasted chickpea flour
• 1/2 – 1 tsp red chili powder
• 1 tsp Coriander powder
• 1/4tsp Turmeric powder
• Salt to taste

Spice mixture

Grind together the following:1/4 tsp. dried ginger, 1/4 tsp. mace, 1/2 tsp. fennel, 1/2 tsp. white cumin seeds, 2 large cardamom, 4 small cardamoms, 4 cloves, 6 black pepper seeds

Preparation

Preparation time 30 minutes | Cooking time 2-3 hours

• Add 2/3rd of the onions in moderately hot oil and when the onion goes soft add ginger & garlic paste along with ground coriander and turmeric powder and let it fry for about 3-4 minutes or until the oil comes on top again.
• Add the meat and cook over slow fire. The meat will let out its own water.
• When it is semi cooked, add the chick pea flour to 2 cups of water and leave the broth to cook over very slow fire for at least 45 minutes.
• The slower you cook the more flavors you will draw out.
• Keep the pot covered but no pressure cookers please.
• When the meat is as tender as it can get, add the spice mixture along with the leftover onions.

On a parting note, while cooking methods remain largely consistent and typical, knowing the spices will help tremendously. So while you’re cooking go on and add that sprinkle of black mustard seeds to hot oil and watch them crackle or throw in some curry leaves and savor the change in flavors!

Sid Khullar has written nearly 400 articles on food, cooking and other related subjects on Chef at Large. He welcomes recipe and photo contributions and is always looking to meet people passionate about the culinary arts.

Is it really necessary to be careful when you’re dining out? Can’t you just splurge when you eat out and watch your intake when you’re at home? Not if you want to lose weight! According to the National Restaurant Association, American restaurants bring in over 500 billion dollars in sales annually! Imagine what that figure must be worldwide! With grocery prices soaring, the majority of mothers working outside of the home, and so many people working long hours and living hectic lives, is it any wonder that we don’t cook anymore?

The problem, of course, is that with the growing obesity problem, and all the health-related issues that come with it, people are going to have to learn how to make wise choices when eating out in restaurants.

There’s absolutely no reason to give up restaurants! Let’s face it; their sales will probably continue to soar! Just follow these quick and easy dining out tips to help you make wise choices and you will be successful on your weight loss journey.

• Follow the new 5-4-3-2-1 Diet when dining out. No foods are off-limits!
• Plan the meal out in your mind before going to the restaurant. You might not be familiar with their menu, but you’ll be able to guess the basic choices. Go through step by step, from wine and appetizer to dessert, visualizing how you want the evening to go. When you sit down and look at the menu, remember your plan.
• Split a meal with your dining companion. Save money and have room for dessert!
• If no one wants to share a meal with you, put half to two-thirds in a “to-go box” for the next day.
• Order an appetizer as your meal. Add a small salad with the dressing on the side.
• Be specific when ordering. Ask questions and make requests.
  The restaurant is there to serve you and most are happy to do so. They want repeat customers!

  Order all dressings and sauces on the side so that you can dip your fork and control your portion. Order your food grilled, broiled, or roasted–never fried!

• Limit yourself to one glass of wine.
• Share one dessert with the whole table, or skip dessert entirely!
• A good dining out tip is to ask the waiter to keep the breadbasket or chip basket. If your dining companions want these things, then decide ahead of time exactly how much you will have and stick to the plan!
• Eat SLOWLY and savor your food. Put down your fork between bites. Chew well. Remember that it takes approximately 20 minutes for you stomach to register that you’ve eaten enough. Assess how you feel and stop eating when you’re no longer hungry.
• Eat with intention! Be a good listener and focus on your companions instead of your food.
• If eating in a fast food restaurant, never super-size. Ask the people at the counter what the healthiest choices are. Most have been trained to provide this information.
• At a buffet, use the salad-sized plates for your meal. Stay away from the salad bar with the exception of the fresh lettuce that you fix yourself. No creamy dressings! Don’t load your salad up with croutons, sunflower seeds, and cheese. Add only vegetables or beans. The other “salads” are loaded with fat and calories. Stay away from them. Choose meat from the carving station and add some vegetables. Allow yourself one small dessert.
• Never show up at a restaurant starving. If your hunger is over the top, eat a small salad before leaving home.
• Know that foods described as “smoked”, “barbecued”, or “teriyaki” are going to have high sodium and anything “breaded”, “sautéed”, “au gratin”, “scalloped”, or “creamed” is going to be high in fat.

Use these simple dining out tips to help you enjoy your restaurant experience. There’s no reason why you can’t enjoy a guilt-free meal and continue to lose weight!

Gail M. Davis teaches teens and adults alike how to eat healthy and successfully lose weight. You’ll find practical weight loss tips along with information about the new 5-4-3-2-1 diet plan, and much more throughout her site.

The ebb and flow of stock markets present opportunities to profit if an investor understands these cycles. Since 1900 we have had 27 bull markets with corresponding bear markets to make things interesting. Presently, we are experiencing the 6th longest and the 5th weakest stock market rally as measured by the Dow.

While this is interesting, it would be more helpful if we could better understand these cycles in the market. Well, the stock market does tend to move in cycles, short term (also called cyclical), and long term (also called secular). Secular markets typically can last between 10 to 20 years, while cyclical markets usually last between 2 – 3 years on average. Think of a secular market as the primary long term trend, while a cyclical market is simply a shorter term cycle within the primary long term secular market.

As investors and traders, we need to understand where we are within these market cycles, so we can be on the right side of the trend to enhance our success. For example, the market was in a secular bull market from 1982 – 2000, experiencing a strong primary uptrend where the Dow Jones Industrial Average increased over 10 fold from about a low of 800 to over 10,000. Of course, there were short term bear markets such as in 1987, however, the easy money was made on the long side as the primary trend was up.

However, here’s where the danger lies: The majority of investors today have only experienced a secular bull market, such as the one from 1982 – 2000. Most of us have not experienced a long term secular bear market where the primary trend is mostly sideways to slightly down. The last secular bear market lasted 16 years from 1966 to 1982. Just to give you some perspective, the Dow Jones hit a high near 1000 in 1966, and hit a low in the 800s during 1982. In other words, the Dow essentially was flat for 16 years. During this time, the ‘easy money’ was not made on the long or short side, but by being being a good stock picker identifying undervalued opportunities, special situation stocks, and sectors that are temporarily strong. Understanding whether we are in a cyclical bull or bear market greatly enhances our chances for success.

The problem is that the secular bull market that began in 1982 ended in 2000. Therefore, while the stock brokers advice to hold for the long term was good advice for a secular bull market, it is totally the wrong strategy for a new secular bear market. The market entered into a new secular bear market in 2000, and as history shows, this new secular bear market will probably last at least until 2010 or longer. The market rally from early 2003 until now is simply a cyclical bull market within the new long term secular bear market. Holding for the long term will not work in this new secular bear market.

Let’s look at each secular bull and bear market of the Dow over the last 100 years. As you can see, except for the secular bull market of 1921 – 1929, secular market cycles last on average 16 to 20 years.

- Secular Bull Market, 1982 – 2000, (18 years)

- Secular Bear Market, 1966 – 1982, (16 years)

- Secular Bull Market, 1949 – 1966, (17 years)

- Secular Bear Market, 1929 – 1949, (20 years)

- Secular Bull Market, 1921 – 1929, (8 years)

- Secular Bear Market, 1905 – 1921, (16 years)

Secular Bull Market, 1982 – 2000 (18 years)

Let’s work backwards, beginning with the last secular bull market, which lasted from 1982 – 2000. The Dow increased over 10 fold from a low of about 800 to a high in the 11,000s. The strong primary trend was up and the best way to make money was to be long in your positions. Only the nimble were able to take advantage of the few cyclical bear markets that occurred in 1987, 1991, and 1998. These pull backs were also opportunities to establish new long positions.

Secular Bear Market, 1966 – 1982 (16 years)

Prior to the last secular bull market, the market was in a long term secular bear market which lasted from 1966 to 1982. During this time, the market essentially went sideways for 16 years. For example, the Dow hit a high of about 1000 in 1966, and low in the 800s in 1982. If you would have followed your brokers advice to ‘hold for the long term’ you would have been greatly disappointed. Sixteen years is a long time to receive next to nothing in return on your money.

The chart of the Dow below from 1966 to 1982 is a classic example of what a secular bear market looks like. There were strong cynical bull and bear markets during this time that caused the market to essentially remain flat for 16 years. However, there were shorter term cyclical bull and bear markets that could be traded.

If you could use a time machine and jump forward 10 years from now, I think this how a chart of the Dow or NASDAQ might look. Both traders and investors will need to do their homework, seeking sectors and stocks that present great value opportunities.

Secular Bull Market, 1949 – 1966 (17 years)

The Dow was in a secular bull market from 1949 – 1966. Here the primary trend was up, which is typical for secular bull markets. The easy money was made by primarily remaining long throughout the cycle.

Secular Bear Market, 1929 – 1949 (20 years)

From 1929 until 1949, the Dow was in the famous secular bear market which also defined the Great Depression. After the nightmare crash from 1929 to 1932, the Dow essentially went sideways to slightly up for the next 17 years, but did not reach its old highs near 375 until the early 1950s. However, there were cyclical bull and bear markets during this long term secular bear market.

The Dow experienced the mother of all crashed from 1929 until 1932. Then from 1932 until 1937, the Dow nearly quadrupled from a low of about 50 to 200. Then from 1937 to 1942 the DOW lost about half of its value from near 200 to about 100 (cyclical bear). Then from 1942 to 1949 the DOW recovered (cyclical bull).

Secular Bull Market, 1921 – 1929 (8 years)

From 1921 until 1929, the Dow was in a strong secular bull market. Actually, from a chart perspective this period was very similar to the more recent 1982 to 2000 secular bull market. The primary trend was up, and the easy money was made by buying and holding for the long term.

Secular Bull Market, 1905 – 1921 (16 years)

The Dow was in a secular bear market from 1905 until 1921. This secular bear market was typical of most secular bear markets, such as the one from 1966 – 1982, composed of mostly vicious cyclical bull and bear markets that result in a mostly sideways long term movement.

Hopefully, you realize it is very important to know the market’s primary secular and cyclical trend. During secular bull markets, the easy money is make by staying long. However, during secular bear markets, staying long produces poor results at best and you could lose a lot of money. Stock picking and following the hot sectors is important for success.

Conclusion

The current market entered a long term secular bear market in 2000, and as history shows us, this will last at least until 2010, probably longer. As discussed above, during secular bear markets, the market trades in vicious cyclical bull and bear markets. Therefore, you have to be careful in the stocks you buy and be ready to sell them quickly should the market turn against you. Pull backs or cyclical bear markets will present opportunities to take new positions once they have run their course. It is also important to find value situations and play the hot sectors. You need to be defensive in our positions and for those who are willing to take the risk, you may want to take some short positions.

Trading and investing is much easier in secular bull markets, and much more difficult during secular bear markets. Since we are in a secular bear market for the next 5 to 10 years, it is going to be much more difficult to be successful in your trading and investing.

Currently, the cyclical bull market that begin in early 2003 is close to being over and a new cyclical bear market will begun that will last another 2 to 3 years. This means that the best plays will be on the bearish side for the next couple years, that is, until the next cyclical bull begins.

Hans Wagner runs a web site focused on stock market strategies and model portfolios for the investor and trader at: http://www.tradingonlinemarkets.com

Many Americans rely on their automobiles to get to work. No automobile means no job, no rent or mortgage money, no food. A single parent, struggling to make ends meet in the suburbs with 100,000 miles on the odometer, would presumably welcome the guaranteed opportunity for low-priced insurance that would take care of every possible repair on her auto until the day that it reaches 200,000 miles or falls apart, whichever comes first. Especially if the insurance is valid regardless of whether she even changes the oil in the interim.

So why aren’t the auto insurance companies writing such coverage, either directly or through used auto dealers? And given the importance of reliable transportation, why isn’t the public demanding such coverage? The answer is that both auto insurers and the public know that such insurance can’t be written for a premium the insured can afford, while still allowing the insurers to stay solvent and make a profit. As a society, we intuitively understand that the costs associated with taking care of every mechanical need of an old automobile, particularly in the absence of regular maintenance, aren’t insurable. Yet we don’t seem to have these same intuitions with respect to health insurance.

If we pull the emotions out of health insurance, which is admittedly hard to do even for this author, and look at health insurance from the economic perspective, there are several insights from auto insurance that can illuminate the design, risk selection, and rating of health insurance.

Auto insurance comes in two forms: the traditional insurance you buy from your agent or direct from an insurance company, and warranties that are purchased from auto manufacturers and dealers. Both are risk transfer and sharing devices and I’ll generically refer to both as insurance. Because auto third-party liability insurance has no equivalent in health insurance, for traditional auto insurance, I’ll examine only collision and comprehensive insurance — insurance covering the vehicle — and not third-party liability insurance.

Bumper to Bumper

The following are some commonly accepted principles from auto insurance:

* Bad maintenance voids certain insurance. If an automobile owner never changes the oil, the auto’s power train warranty is void. In fact, not only does the oil need to be changed, the change needs to be performed by a certified mechanic and documented. Collision insurance doesn’t cover cars purposefully driven over a cliff.

* The best insurance is offered for new models. Bumper-to-bumper warranties are offered only on new cars. As they roll off the assembly line, automobiles have a low and relatively consistent risk profile, satisfying the actuarial test for insurance pricing. Furthermore, auto manufacturers usually wrap at least some coverage into the price of the new auto in order to encourage an ongoing relationship with the owner.

* Limited insurance is offered for old model autos. Increasingly limited insurance is offered for old model autos. The bumper-to-bumper warranty expires, the power train warranty eventually expires, and the amount of collision and comprehensive insurance steadily decreases based on the market value of the auto.

* Certain older autos qualify for additional insurance. Certain older autos can qualify for additional coverage, either in terms of warranties for used autos or increased collision and comprehensive insurance for vintage autos. But such insurance is offered only after a careful inspection of the automobile itself.

* No insurance is offered for normal wear and tear. Wiper blades need replacement, brake pads wear out, and bumpers get dings. These aren’t insurable events. To the extent that a new car dealer will sometimes cover some of these costs, we intuitively understand that we’re “paying for it” in the cost of the automobile and that it’s “not really” insurance.

* Accidents are the only insurable event for the oldest automobiles. Accidents are generally insurable events even for the oldest autos; with few exceptions service work isn’t.

* Insurance doesn’t restore all vehicles to pre-accident condition. Auto insurance is limited. If the damage to the auto at any age exceeds the value of the auto, the insurer then pays only the value of the auto. With the exception of vintage autos, the value assigned to the auto goes down over time. So whereas accidents are insurable at any vehicle age, the amount of the accident insurance is increasingly limited.

* Insurance is priced to the risk. Insurance is priced based on the risk profile of both the automobile and the driver. The auto insurer carefully examines both when setting rates.

* We pay for our own insurance. And with few exceptions, automobile insurance isn’t tax deductible. As a result, the fear of increasing insurance rates due to traffic violations and/or accidents changes our driving behavior and we sometimes select our automobiles based on their insurability.

Each of the above principles is supported by solid actuarial theory. Although most Americans can’t describe the underlying actuarial theories, most everyone understands the above principles of auto insurance at the intuitive level. For sure, as indispensable automobiles are to our lifestyles, there is no loud national movement, accompanied by moral outrage, to change these principles.

Unsustainable Market

In contrast, similar principles are routinely violated in health insurance. To demonstrate this, let’s return to the same suburban mother from the opening paragraph. She’s busy working, driving to and from work, and driving her kids to school and activities. She ends each day exhausted, sitting on the couch with fast food. She’s obese, has a sedentary life, a bad diet, and hasn’t taken the time to go to the doctor in years. After a simple injury doesn’t heal for weeks, she turns up at the emergency room and learns she has type II diabetes. Although type II diabetes is controllable, changing diet and exercise habits and properly tracking her condition takes time and effort and she’s never quite successful in implementing the necessary lifestyle changes.

So the initial emergency room visit is only the first of a long list of health care related to non-controlled diabetes and other problems associated with obesity. Whether she has individual or group insurance, her insurance pays for each episode of care, without singling her out for a premium increase, and without charging her any more cost sharing than is charged to the healthiest and most medically diligent insureds. Her coverage continues until she voluntarily changes insurance companies and/or employers or becomes eligible for Medicare. If she’s covered under group insurance she may not even pay any premium. Her insurance continues unabated, even though the disease was caused by neglecting her body and she maintains her poor lifestyle even after the disease becomes known.

This just wouldn’t happen in auto insurance. This scenario is the auto insurance equivalent of guaranteed access to low-priced auto insurance that takes care of every possible repair, including damage already done, until the day the car falls apart so completely it’s unsalvageable (death) or reaches 200,000 miles (Medicare), regardless of whether she even changes the oil (takes care of herself) in the interim.

As a society, we don’t expect this in private-market auto insurance, but we expect it in private-market health insurance. Furthermore, there’s a chorus of national and state interests, which continuously pushes us further away from the auto insurance principles.

The current private health insurance market isn’t sustainable. Prices have been consistently increasing faster than inflation for decades. Each year, insureds use more health care than ever before and more people have no insurance at all. Most actuaries and other people in the private health insurance market don’t want national health insurance with its bureaucracy and one-size-fits-all benefits. Yet, we’re trying to sustain a private insurance system, which violates the very principles we know are necessary for private insurance markets.

Yes, health insurance involves the sacredness of human life and is therefore different from auto insurance. But if we’re to sustain a private-market solution to health insurance, actuaries need to explain to the larger society, in terms that society understands, the rationale for the following principles:

* As sacred as health care is, it’s still an economic transaction that has to be balanced by individuals and societies, against other economic choices. It can’t be unlimited. Sometimes it will be secondary to other choices. On a given day, for example, the mother in our scenario may value her car more than her health.

* Insurance premiums should be paid by the individual and tied to controllable risk factors. This will provide the best incentive for the control of risk factors.

* Although it’s hard to draw the line between abuse, neglect and ignorance, self-abuse shouldn’t be insured and we need to draw that line somewhere.

* The private market can’t provide unlimited, self-directed health insurance.

* Routine care and ongoing treatments of chronic conditions can be pre-funded, can even be subsidized, but they don’t constitute “insurable events.”

* Insurance can’t be expected to keep every human body in pristine condition. No amount of health care will prevent everyone’s ultimate death.

* Comprehensive, unlimited, non-subsidized private-market coverage isn’t possible for people with severely impaired health.

* The private health market can provide limited non-subsidized health insurance, such as protection from accidents, to even health-impaired individuals.

* Individuals who can afford to do so and who take good care of themselves should be able to “buy up” to better coverage. People have the option of buying up for everything else in life.

Discussion of these principles is lacking from most of the current health insurance debate. If society can intuitively understand how similar principles apply to health insurance, then they should be able understand the principles in the health insurance context. We need to initiate the debate.

This commentary is solely the opinion of its author. It does not express the official policy of the American Academy of Actuaries; nor does it necessarily reflect the opinions of the Academy’s individual officers, members, or staff

Precedent puts a new spin on health insurance. Learn more at http://www.precedent.com. [http://www.precedent.com]

In this article you will find information about lawn tractors. Knowing the prices, various uses, and how to use this tool safely can help you make the knowledgeable decision about which lawn tractor is best for you and your uses.

Lawn Tractors = Small Tractors

If you need a tractor for different kinds of farmwork for less than 2 acres, then a farm tractor is the best choice for you. You can greatly reduce your manual labor, due to the many attachments that are available for lawn tractors. You will find that this can help you keep your garden in tip-top condition in much less time. In most cases, a lawn tractor up to a maximum of 7-10 HP will also have a ZTR (zero turning radius) feature to help you when working in a smaller field.

The Versatility of Lawn Tractors

Versatility is a major benefit of lawn tractors. Some of the jobs that can be completed by lawn tractors include hole digging, lawn rolling, tilling, mowing, and many other jobs. The power take off spindle makes these jobs easily possible. That is why lawn tractors are a gardener’s best friend.

Purchasing A Lawn Tractor

Choosing and purchasing a lawn tractor is much like buying an automobile. The optional accessories increase the prices of both a car and a lawn tractor. That is why you want to choose your lawn tractor and accessories wisely to ensure that you will use the ones that you are purchasing. You also want to ensure that you can try the lawn tractor in the showroom to ensure that you can attach and remove the accessories with very little effort. Test-drive the lawn tractor to make sure you can get in and out of it easily as well.

Price of Lawn Tractors

There is a large price range in lawn tractors. A smaller lawn tractor can start at $900 and go up to $6000. The Bolen 762F76 is a basic model and it is available for just under $900, while the John Deer Spin-Steer SST-16 is approximately $3300. A Poulan Pro PK1845H42ST is about $1400. These costs are for the tractor without any accessories. Accessories can make the cost greatly increase. A canopy starts at $110 and a collection bag for grass is around $300. A cart can run you anywhere from $110 to $220, depending upon the size. Now you see how the costs can quickly add up. If you are planning to use the lawn tractor for mowing 1/2 to 1 acre, then you may want to choose a stand behind lawnmower for around $350, instead of a lawn tractor.

Safely Using A Lawn Tractor

Lawn tractors are designed with a low center of gravity and that is why there is very little possibility of the lawn tractors tipping over. It is important to use the following safety precautions, regardless of the little possibility of them turning over.

o It is important that you watch your speed, especially when you are on an incline. A small rock can cause your lawn tractor to have problems and possibly injure you.

o While getting off of the lawn tractor, ensure that it is turned off and all attachments touch the ground, if at all possible.

Andrew Caxton is a journalist who has written more articles and newsletters on the subject for [http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com] . A free online magazine that carries articles on lawn tractors, and a guide on lawn care here lawn tractors [http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com/lawn-tractors.html]

Are you planning to revamp your child’s room? Are you looking out for things which will make your child’s room bright and trendy? Have you ever given a thought for children’s furniture, kids’ toy boxes? Not much, right?

Furniture and toys will be the best option to start with the renovation of your kid’s bedroom. Always look out for things which are going to help your child to learn faster, bring those toys which will encourage them, which will fire their imagination and every creative aspect of their life. The first thing you can to do is to plan out the things and then start working on it. Make sure how you are going to do it, what things are you going to place in their rooms, which colors you are going to put on their walls, and the color of the children’s furniture. Have you ever thought from where you are going purchase all these things and what will be the expense?

Try to make your child’s room special by using decorative things like cartoon print bed sheet, colorful flowers, etc. Many parents want to give the best to their children no matter if it is little expensive. A variety of kids furniture are available in the market like tea party tables, rocking toys, wooden toys, educational toys, art activity desk, bookshelf, toy box etc. These things not only make their room attractive but also help them to learn lot of things for example; tea table will be helpful in learning table manner, bookshelf will help them to keep their books in an organized way, after playing children put their toys all over the room so don’t you think toy box will be helpful to them to keep their toys back after playing. Toys are the best thing which will help your child to learn lot of things in their day to day life.

Now this is not all about making your child’s room look special but it’s also about what quality kids furniture and kids toy boxes are you using. Parents look out for those kids furniture which are not harmful to their children. Lots of toys are made of plastic which contains toxins in it and those are harmful for the health of the children. These toys and kids furniture should be of better quality and try to use wooden furniture in their rooms which will last for long time and will not prove harmful to their health.

You can find this furniture in well known shops of wooden kids furniture where you will get lot of varieties. Try not to buy inferior quality things due to lesser cost. If not possible, use a few things in the room but of good quality. There are number of stores dealing with children’s furniture in the internet market so just enter your search and purchase appropriate furniture for your child’s bedroom.

Bart Albert is the author of this article on Childrens furniture [http://www.oldfashionedtoyshop.co.uk/component/virtuemart/?page=shop.browse&category_id=8].

Find more information about Childrens toy boxes [http://www.oldfashionedtoyshop.co.uk/component/virtuemart/?page=shop.browse&category_id=12] here.

The dilemma of buying children’s clothing begins even before your child is born. After having a baby, women usually receive some clothes as baby gifts. Often these are small sizes that your child will outgrow very soon. So you can see that buying clothes is an ongoing task for parents.

As an infant, a baby will change sizes every few weeks. Buy durable clothing in washable, comfortable fabrics. Babies have many accidents so you’ll need to buy clothes that are easy to clean. If you use bright colors instead of pastels, they will not soil or stain as easily. When shopping for children’s clothes, many women seek high-quality clothing. But if you,re on a tight budget, you can always wait for clothing store sales at places such as Gap, Old Navy, Disney Baby, or Babies R Us.

Bargain Seekers

With the knowledge that a child will outgrow their clothing quickly, some women go thrift shopping and check garage sales. Many times these clothes are barely worn and may even look almost new. Thrift shopping is a good way to find children’s brand name clothing without paying the full price. Sometimes clothing for boys in larger sizes is harder to find at these sources because of the wear and tear. Finding clothing for girls may be a bit easier. The key to finding great clothes at a bargain is to shop often. Visit your local thrift shop once a week and frequent yard sales in your area.

Yard sales are even better than thrift stores in some ways because you can bargain with the seller. Try picking out a bundle of clothing and other items; then make an offer for the entire bundle. You might be surprised at how little you will pay for items. Also, check for bargains through the newspaper classifieds. Occasionally, you’ll see offerings for children’s clothing directly through the ads.

Preparing for Ever-Changing Sizes and Needs

When your child gets to the toddler stage, clothing needs will change. During and after potty training, separate tops and bottoms will be more practical. Dresses and pull-on pants make training easier and encourage the toddler to be independent. Buy clothes that are easy to put on and take off so your toddler can learn to dress himself. You will need to buy good shoes that are comfortable. When fitting shoes, allow a half-inch in front of the toes when standing and make sure the heel fits properly.

If you have younger children of the same gender but different ages, or if you plan to have another baby soon, keep unsoiled clothing put away for the next child. This will save you money, and younger children usually never know the difference. Store the clothing in a dry, tightly sealed plastic container to keep mice and moths out. Include a fabric sheet to keep the clothes smelling fresh.

Buying Children’s Clothing for School

When your child starts school, clothing needs will again change. At this time, your child may want to help pick out clothes. Before you go shopping for clothes, have your child try on last year’s clothes and see what can still be worn. Then look for clothing that is comfortable, washable, and easy to keep clean. Many mothers choose children’s clothing that is simple with large buttons and has zippers with pulls, elastic waists, and large neck openings. Buy clothes that are appropriate and safe. Avoid big legs, loose ribbons or sashes, and slippery shoes. Even if you can’t afford expensive fashionable clothes, choose basic clothing in colors and styles your child likes.

Watch for store sales on school clothing and save money if your state has tax-free shopping days. In the winter, dress your child in layers. While they are outdoors they can wear their coats, hats, gloves, and scarves. Inside, they can also wear layers to remove if they become uncomfortable. A sweatshirt over a button-up shirt or a t-shirt under a button-up shirt will provide this option. Many women with smaller children choose clothing that will be easy to remove when going to the bathroom. The teachers always appreciate this!

Remember that some styles may be cute and very stylish but not comfortable or practical. Look at women’s magazines to get ideas, or talk to other mother’s that have more experience with children,s clothing to make the best choices.

Chris Robertson is an author of Majon International, one of the worlds MOST popular internet marketing companies on the web.

Learn more about Choosing Clothing for Your Children or Majon’s Clothing for Children directory

After the last of the ice has thawed and before the beginning of major inset activity, a narrow window of opportunity exists for the fly angler to tempt huge brown trout with large streamers. Here in our part of the country, the Midwest, this is normally during late May and early June.

As water temperatures begin increasing, so does the activity of the fish. When they emerge from their winter lethargy of low metabolism, they’re hungry and ready to eat. Smaller baitfish swimming near the river bank and shallows resume active feeding as well. They too are foraging, looking for anything and everything that might offer nourishment. The occasional subsurface eruption is a tell-tale signal that one has just met a swift, piscivorous end.

One thing you can almost always count on during this time of year is a fast moving weather front. Thunderstorms can come on quickly and wreak havoc if you’re not prepared. For this reason, I take advantage of the internet and the Weather Channel to help me choose fishing days least likely to be affected by weather. Despite all the forecasting in the world, sometimes I can still find myself in a precarious situation.

One day is seared into my memory and not likely to dissipate any time soon. I was out with friend and fellow streamer freak Brad Turner during springtime a number of years back. We weren’t on the water for half an hour before a fast moving weather front came in. A number of lightning bolts touching ground too close for our comfort drove us under cover. With our graphite rods judiciously placed against a tree yards away, we were set to wait it out. Rolling thunder turned into a loud CRACK that sounded like big-game rifle being fired right next to us. Having been caught in more than a few storms over the last 30 years, I’ve seen them come and go, but it’s impossible to be ready for that blinding streak of silver from above. This one nearly required a change of britches ! It did pass, but not before giving us an incredible light show and display of the power that mother nature has hidden in those clouds above.

Big Trout Condos

Big trout like to live where they feel safe. They also like to eat feed not too far from familiar surroundings.

Brush piles, downed trees, uprooted stumps, logjams, old docks, manmade stream improvements and deeply undercut, heavily rooted banks all qualify as home-sweet-home to an old, hook-jawed brown trout.

Occupying some of the heaviest cover the river has to offer, he doesn’t make himself easy to get at. When in search of food, he will venture from the comfort of structure to spots in the river where a feeding channel is close, but never more than a tail-kick away from the lumber and his safely zone. His home habitat is as familiar to him as your favorite living room recliner is to you. He knows exactly where he is and how to quickly get back to safety should the need arise.

Although such large trout may move to and from their preferred lies for feeding purposes, once a dominant fish finds a comfortable location to call home, he is not likely to give it up to a subordinate fish. Work log jams with the most favorable looking surroundings. Continued depth downstream from a piling or a nice cut in the river bottom at the edge of the jam where current speeds come together below the structure and create a nice seam for fish to comfortably sit in. Oven overhanging branches from a neighboring tree that casts a shadow on the hole or run. Be deliberate and thorough in working these deep, dark, promising places.

One such location proved fruitful on a late May day couple years ago. With an arsenal of rods, fly boxes, a cooler of Mountain Dew and submarine sandwiches, Tommy and I set out for another day of streamer fishing. No long into the day we came upon a likely looking run. I was on the oars. With a couple of casts toward the front of an ominous jam, followed by one down the gut, Tommy’s line went taut before he could yell, “FISH ON !” The battle between man and beast was beautiful, each having its way with the other at different times during the tussle. I dropped anchor and hopped out of the boat, intent on getting downstream from the fish. With symphonic precision, Tommy worked the fish over a sand-bar shelf. I move in with the net and —in the bag ! After we caught our breath, out came the camera and tape; 24 inches of hooked-jawed majesty. One look at his elongated snout and his mouthful of teeth and we named him “The Gator”.

Another episode three years ago will not soon be forgotten. Only after casting farther and working line deeper in a run called “Kestners Corner” on the famous Pere Marquette rivers in western Michigan, did I find the sweet spot of this particular run. Sweet for the fish, but not for me and this one will remain a mystery. With friend Adam on the oars, I diligently worked tandem flies in and around various obstacles in this short S-bend of logs, stumps and boulders. Adam pumped the oars a couple times to set me up for the prime spot in the run. I measured the cast and sent my flies toward the jam. I had barely gotten my line under a finger to start stripping it back and out he came….BANG A short but swift hook-set and the battle was on. The heavy-shouldered golden brute made a dash for the wood, but with a downstream sweep of my rod, I kept him from reaching the lumber. He made another run for cover, but another rod turn and he was clear of danger. Luck was on my side…..I thought. His last run was downstream into fast, choppy water. I felt him tire, Adam was there with net in hand and ready. With a couple more turns of the reel, I was ready to bring him up. As he came to the surface, he revealed himself, “BIG fish”. Another burst of energy put him just out of the nets reach. My attempt to bring him back toward us ended with him splashing frantically at the surface nearly next to the boat and next thing I see…….pop, there goes the hook and one incredible fish.

Gearing up for the Big Boys

He’s not your average trout. Leave your 4 and 5 weight fly rods at home. Casting full sinking or heavy sink-tip lines with oversized streamers requires greater physical strength and persistence. A 7 or 8 weight, medium to fast action rods, measuring 8 ½ to 10 feet will deliver your offering the best. Properly balanced, such rods are light enough to allow for sustained casting throughout the day, yet have the backbone to pull a big fish out of, or away from, heavy cover and structure during a dog fight such as this.

I recall a battle with a plump, feisty female brown trout with more speed than is often associated with large, lumber-hunkering browns. With the umpteenth cast of my 10 foot, 7 weight rod rigged with 250 grain sinking line in long deep runs, my fingers started to get number. Despite the fatigue, my cast landed between a boil from a submerged stump and a series of crisscrossed logs in a center river trough. Between strips of my streamer, the line jumped and I was off to the races with this butterscotch beauty.

After a run of 30-40 feet downstream, most of which was less than two feet below the surface, she reversed direction with just as much vigor and was back in front of us in no time. When she made her turn close to the boat, I could see the profile and knew this was no small trout. After negotiating a few more runs around the surrounding logs, she was safely resting in the soft mesh of the net. With a short, narrow nose and an opal blue dot behind her eye, she lit up in the midday sun, all 2 foot of her.

This pace of action can down right tire you out. It’s a good idea to take an occasional break to subdue the inevitable fatigue that will set in during a full day of “big boy” streamer fishing. If you’re too tired and not paying attention, you could end up casting a rather pricey rod/reel combo right into the river. However, with some patience and practice with your timing, such fishing can be very rewarding.

Different fishing situations call for the use of sinking or sink tip lines of differing lengths and weight. If wade fishing, I might opt for a sink-tip of 8-14 feet in length, in a 250-300 grain weight. Being able to mend the back portion of the fly line will allow you to work the bottom two-thirds of the water column.

Leaders are important, but not nearly as critical as they are for dry fly fishing. My typical streamer leader is about 3-5 feet, depending on water clarity and tapered down to 8-15 pound test. In other words, I let the river guide me……sounds odd! If the water is off color, I will increase pound strength of tippet and decrease it if water is low and/or clear. When tying fly to tippet with a standard improved clinch or Duncan Loop knot, it’s helpful to balance the line strength and diameter with “How” the fly acts in the water. Specifically, how does it look in the water based on the stiffness of both high/low pound test tippet material? I will use a Rapala knot or Perfection loop knot when tying on larger streamers. With an open loop type knot, it allows the fly/flies to “bob and weave” through the water in an erratic manner which often elicits vicious strikes.

Two years ago Marc Kiekenapp and I found ourselves drifting unknowingly close to one too many log jams and he got snagged up. I rowed over to it, he stripped extra line in to bring the snagged fly right to the rod tip to try and free it from the lumber….SNAP !….Marc’s four piece rod was not a five piece. More than one rod has fallen victim to big streamer fishing. Overhanging branches, strong hooks sets and strong tippet can be a recipe for rod breakage from time to time, bring an extra rod along just to be safe.

Supersize Flies

Let your conventional size 6 Black Nose Dace, Mickey Finns or Muddler Minnows rest comfortably in their own box next to your summertime dry fly box of Elk Hair Caddis and PMD’s. To lure a really large trout, you have to start thinking BIG. Streamers that look like small rodents with hooks. The flies you should be packing are four to six inches long, sometimes even longer depending on conditions. Often constructed with two hooks and connected with heavy backing, heavy monofilament, wire or a combination, they are truly a “creation” by the fly tier. Some are weighted to go deep, others aren’t in order to ride high in the water column. Some look more like Christmas tree ornaments than traditional trout streamers. Not to say that the “classics” don’t work, but you will increase your chances for a big boy considerably by increasing the size of the fly you’re fishing. A big trout wants a mouthful if it’s going to spend the energy chasing food. It’s a thrill to see a large fly, undulating through the water as it’s retrieved and then suddenly engulfed by a dark shadow that bolts out of nowhere and buckles your rod to the cork……my heart start pounding just thinking about it !

Vary color and combinations to correspond to differences in water depth, clarity, flow, light conditions and even physical makeup of the river. When throwing tandem streamers, I like to have one offset the other in color and/or action. Tip drab olive fly could be followed by a sparkly rainbow pattern, black followed by white, cream deer hair head (will suspend a bit due to deer hair), trailed by a bright yellow. The combinations are many and it doesn’t hurt to try out different combinations on different rivers.

I have found some consistency in productive patterns when fishing high water with some “tint” to it. Under such conditions, a fly with a good silhouette will draw more attentions from fish than a sparse, faint pattern. When working a stretch of river filled with log jams that have a dark back drop, I will use lighter combinations since they will show up good with that dark wood behind it. If the run is a deeper “cut” or trough adjacent to quality lumber based cover, but has a sand bottom, I will be quick to go dark due to the comparatively light back drop of the sand bottom.

Two years ago I was fishing a black strip leech, trailed by a white baitfish pattern. An enormous brown trout bolted from cover to inspect the leech, only to pinwheel back and absolutely HAMMER the white fly. I often wonder if an attention-getting front fly acts as an attractor more often than we “know”. Since only the fish have that answer, it’s still just a theory. There are no hard and fast rules here, experimentation has often led to some great discoveries in the world of fly fishing.

Technique

Casting supersized flies cannot merely tire you out; it can be downright dangerous if not carried out with your full attention and some practice prior to getting in the river. Case in point – following a heart-pounding episode where a true trophy TRUTTA showed himself with a quick chase and short inspection of my fly, I frantically attempted to re-cast to the same spot, only to have it all come to a halt with a five inch streamer pattern hanging from my EAR !…..OUCH ! Sunglasses or other eye protection are critical to have on when casting big flies.

Given that most any river can be fished with large, gaudy streamers, it’s now a matter of how to effectively cast such large flies, get them where you want AND not put a hook in your fishing buddy.

My vision of traditional streamer fishing involves casting toward a bank at a 90 degree angle – perpendicular in other words – and working the fly back into mid river as though it got caught sideways in the current and is now susceptible to any nearby ambush artists….big trout ! Logic here is that by casting toward the bank, “maybe” just a bit downstream from perpendicular, that you’re putting your fly in front of the greatest number of fish. This is due to the fact that trout need to keep their noses into the current to most effectively pump water and oxygen through their gills. After retrieving fly/flies to just shy of the sink line-leader knot, pick up, false cast once, maybe twice to lengthen slightly or change direction a bit, present fly, let is sink slightly and begin the stripping sequence and repeat as you work your way down river. Repeat the process, focusing on likely holding water such as medium depth and medium current speed runs, troughs and jams.

Sounds good, but what’s wrong with this approach ??? Nothing, IF you have the room to back cast 15-25 or more feet of line. When using larger flies that cast and track differently in the water, a few things can be done with the cast and retrieve to keep your flies where you want them and not beat your body up too badly while chucking around big macs all day.

I like to employ a roll cast set up when working with heavy sink lines and big flies. Like a traditional roll cast, the motion is similar, but for different reasons. Rather than stripping the fly all the way back to nearly the tip of the rod, instead begin the roll cast motion once you see your fly or have a pretty good idea that it’s only 6-8 feet out from the rod tip. By starting the roll cast at this time, you’re accomplishing 2 things in one continuous motion; not bringing ALL of your line in and then having to cast a clunky knot through various snake guides on your rod, but still keeping flies in the water for the greatest distance you can. Should a strike come at the end, when your flies are a mere few feet from your casting position, you can strip one big arm length of line in and still have enough tension to set the hook. Polarized glasses help a lot when training your eyes to look for the flies, versus aimlessly stripping away until you hear the line-leader knot clumsily climb through the tip-top of your rod.

By keeping some line outside your rod tip and using the first part of the roll cast motion as a “set up”- soft roll cast that has your flies land very close, but in FRONT of you – it’s rather easy to then simply pick up line, execute a short back cast and shoot the remainder of your fly line. An exceptional technique on smaller streams, it’s also a great way to fish larger rivers. Once you get into a rhythm, it’s a very effective method for covering a lot of water and minimizing the wear on your body, especially the casting arm and shoulder.

Once in the “big fly” mindset, it’s critical to strip whatever streamer pattern(s) you’re casting, at a speed consistent with that of the natural that you’re trying to duplicate with your fly. In other words, don’t strip a 2″ baitfish pattern in rapid, 20-30″ increments, a fish that small cannot swim that fast ! This being said, I’m not a strong proponent of the slow strip during prime streamer time, which are the warming months of April and May in the Midwest. In some cases, you have to get a fish on the verge of hysteria to follow a big streamer. Sometimes that means running it by them at a pace that’s slow enough for them to catch, yet fast enough to make them nearly swim out of their scales trying to get it. As we “match the hatch” with surface feeding trout, we can do nearly the same with streamers at times. Identify what big trout are likely to be feeding on based on the river and habitat and then duplicate the fly, motion and speed of retrieval to best match the natural. Large trout eat fish and they’re used to chasing them down…….give ‘em what they want and what they’re familiar with.

The Secret to Coaxing a Big Fish

As with so much else in life, success in hooking and landing big trout is fundamentally a matte of putting in your time. Few anglers I know can pick up a big-fly rig and cast it effortlessly and accurately if they have not devoted hours of time and sustained effort to this type of fly fishing. Even those who have fished this way have to get re-accustomed to the whole feel of this game. “A bit rusty, eh?” is a common phrase early spring from friends and fellow anglers I may be on the water with. We all throw some wayward casts early in the season. But once “dialed in”, although not always poetry in motion, it is rather magical to watch and only then can one turn the tables on large trout, when WE become the predator.

Streamer fishing for big trout is definitely not for everyone. You first have to accept the givens of this approach.

1 – You’re not going to catch a lot of fish and may get only a few good shots at them.

2 – Hooked doesn’t mean landed. I lost one of the nicest brown trout that I’ve ever seen, let alone hooked on a streamer, right at the net after negotiating numerous obstacles like stumps, boulders, an entire log jam and a tricky turn in the river. Friend Adam was ready with the net……and I lost him. As much as we “willed” that fish another 10 inches closer to the rim of the net, it didn’t happen.

3 – You will get tired. Your arm may feel like Jell-O at the end of a full day of tossing around rag dolls.

4 – You will lose flies, some very elaborate that may have taken you or another person quite a while to tie.

5 – You can experience glory and agony with the same fish in a matter of seconds….some of which you will remember forever….

Jeff Bacon – West Michigan, Orvis Endorsed, Fly Fishing Guide & Author

http://www.westmichiganflyfishing.com

Are you looking for the fly fishing adventure of your life? Join me on the river for an experience you’ll never forget!